Tuesday, September 16, 2008

Stuffed peppers, who knew they could be so good?

So there's this stall at the market called Tonnemakers. They have a huge variety of produce--apples, melons, cherries, pears and peaches, tomatoes and corn, you name it--but it seems like peppers and apples are among their specialties.

See?
When I was at that market a few weekends ago, I decided to get a bag of peppers. I'd been eyeing them for awhile but kept deciding against them because I had no idea what I'd make. I practically never cook with peppers and really don't know how. Truthfully, they are not one of my favorite foods. My good friend Hans* said to me once, in college, that when she ate peppers, she ate them all day. Also true of doughnuts. I'm paraphrasing. The point is, they make you burp, and that's not something I can get behind. Can you? Spicy peppers are a breed apart and I think my next pepper project will involve these. Historically my tolerance for heat has been pretty low but it's getting better and I like a good spicy dish every now and again.

Maybe cooky will post again one of these days and tell me how to make it spicy. *hint*

I got a mix of sweet peppers, the names of which I can't entirely recall, but most of them were recommended as good for stuffing or frying. The long curly frying ones I still have and they are beginning to shrivel up, so what their fate will be is anyone's guess. The others, however, were either diced or stuffed in a haphazardly conceived but otherwise well-executed Sunday supper.

Stuffed peppers did not excite me as a prospect, initially. I kept thinking of the those frozen Stouffers peppers, which I remember making for my grandmother. They always looked sort of watery and mushy and as such are not among my favorite food memories. (However... homemade applesauce? Kitty Dukakis?** Hot milk sponge cake? Now we're talking.) But then I considered my other options--sausage & peppers, some kind of stir-fry, a roasted pepper sauce for pasta--and figured they were worth a shot.

Getting to supper was something of a journey. All the recipes I could find for stuffed peppers--online and in print--were very uninspiring. Beef, rice, ketchup or tomato sauce, breadcrumbs and cheese cropped up in most. Those could taste pretty good, but I didn't have those ingredients on hand. (As an aside, leftover risotto or a really nice ragu or chili might make an amazing stuffed pepper, too.) What I did have was some ground lamb and a pantry, so I worked up a kind of middle-eastern mix for the stuffing. Since the peppers were red and sweet, I think this was the right call flavor-wise. I ended up producing a fragrant savory-sweet heap of delicious.

And when I say heap, that's what I mean. Since my peppers were an odd shape, I had to cook them on their sides instead of standing, as you'd do with a traditional bell pepper. It was a little more messy that way, but I don't lose sleep over this kind of thing. I had a lot of stuffing leftover and topped with a quick egg poached in olive oil, it's been a great quick supper.


Moral of the story: stuffed peppers are much better than you may think! If you try these, let me know how they turn out. For vegetarians, you could easily substitute chickpeas for the lamb and add some chopped olives, too.

Stuffed Peppers a la Chefty

4 peppers, bell or otherwise--they just need to be big enough to accomodate a filling
1 medium yellow onion, diced
1 or 2 small sweet peppers or 1 medium bell pepper, diced
3/4 -1 lb ground lamb
2 cloves of garlic, minced
1 tb cumin
1 tsp caradamom
1 tsp red pepper flakes
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground ginger (you could also use the same amount of fresh ginger, peeled and grated)
1/4 cup black currants
6 oz of feta cheese or paneer, diced
1/4 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted (optional to toast, I just like to)
1/2 cup brown rice or rice pilaf, dry (I used a packet of this Kashi pilaf, yum)
1 cup diced tomato, canned or fresh
olive oil
salt
pepper

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil and lightly oil. If you're using bell peppers and want to stand them up all pretty, you can lightly oil a bundt, angel-food, or 9x9 square baking pan so they keep their form while they cook. Otherwise, if you have irregularly shaped peppers, you can just cook them on their sides and sacrifice aesthetics.

1. Slice tops off of peppers, remove core and seeds, and blanch peppers in boiling salted water for about a minute. Remove peppers to drain on a paper towel until you're ready to stuff them.

2. Using blanching water, cook brown rice or rice pilaf according to packager's instructions. You won't need to use all the water, just measure out what you need for 1/2 cup of dry rice. Of course, you can make as much rice as you want and save the leftover for something else. For the stuffing, you'll need about 1 cup of cooked rice.

3. Saute onion and pepper with salt and pepper in olive oil over medium heat until soft and beginning to color, about five minutes. Add ground lamb and cook through until brown but still juicy. Check for salt.

4. Add garlic, cumin, cardamom, coriander, ginger, and red pepper flakes and stir to combine.

5. Add tomatoes, cheese, and currants and stir to combine. Now's a good time to take a nice big whiff of the steam rising from the pan--guaranteed to make your stomach growl. Check again for seasoning.

6. Remove pan from the heat, add pine nuts and cooked rice. Taste.

7. Fill peppers to just shy of the top (not overflowing), you'll probably have stuffing leftover. Bake in preheated oven for 20-25 minutes until peppers have softened slightly and filling has begun to sizzle.

8. Drizzle with a bit of olive oil and serve with salad greens or just by themselves. If your peppers are on the small or skinny side, you could probably eat two (I did).

*Name changed.
**"Kitty Dukakis, you say? Is that code for rubbing alcohol?" Shame on you. No, it's a recipe by Kitty Dukakis that was printed one year in the Worcester Telegram & Gazette (or maybe the Boston Globe) around the holidays and has since become a family favorite of ours. I don't remember exactly how you make it, but it's basically cranberry jello with sour cream and walnuts. Like stuffed peppers, much better than it may sound at first.

Monday, September 08, 2008

Everyone's favorite Parisian pistachio and chorizo cake




Warm and sliced open. So pretty! This is probably a good party conversation piece.


Baking chemistry pleases me in a way I can't really describe. I love nooks, crannies, flaky layers. Leavening, it's cool.

This is definitely one for the recipe box, all credit due to two favorite Parisians.

A vegetarian version might be good with olives instead of chorizo and maybe some parmesan cheese. The cake delicious just by itself, but I also bet it would be nice sliced thin with a bit of goat cheese, or toasted with some olive oil, tapenade, or butter.

Oh, and I did not end up having any eggs or salad with this. Instead I munched on some more string beans with pesto while the cake was in the oven. And because I know how scintillating this is-- how suspenseful, even!--let me tell you: these particular beans, which were purchased from the same stall that gave me last week's amazing beans, were not nearly as good as that first batch or as tender and sweet as the ones I had last night.

Change really is the only thing you can count on.

Update: people at work *hated* this, in fact someone spit it out! But my supperclub friends seemed to really like it so... who knows?

A rare but happy occasion.

I just came across this recipe (thank you David Leibovitz--he of the amazing salted caramel ice cream) and realized I have *all* the ingredients at home to make it. Well, except for the sun-dried tomatoes, but those are easy to pick up.

I think I'll have this tonight with some poached eggs and a salad. Sounds good, doesn't it? I have no idea what to expect from this curious mix of ingredients, but I'm hoping it will be sink-your-teeth-in delicious.

More to come...

Wednesday, September 03, 2008

Wise up.*

Pink peonies.

Well, it's been a slow few months here. I have not taken on too many Chefty challenges, I suppose my sails have been wanting wind, and now fall has pretty much arrived, if the cool temperatures and cloudyish skies are any indication.

I went back to the market this weekend after being on vacation and was really beside myself with delight. The bounty of gorgeous fresh food in this part of the country never fails to thrill me. Sometimes it feels like the saving grace of this place. Tables and tables piled high with peaches and plums and armloads of lettuce and beans, baskets of curly lettuce and buckets of dahlias and sunflowers, bright waxy peppers of all shapes and colors and flavors, heaps of berries all lined up in pints and flats. Everywhere! I will try to document what I'm talking about this weekend. Every farmer has everything, it's so hard to know where to shop. This past weekend, I did buy two different sets of wax beans (my most favorite) from different vendors to see whose might be better. I've yet to try the second bunch, but the first was near-perfect--they didn't need anything after a quick steam but a drizzle of olive oil and salt. I also bought a box of peaches--fourteen! That may have been a little ambitious of me--and they are huge, each weighing close to half a pound and perfectly drip-down-your-chin juicy. I froze half of them so that some time in winter when it's miserable and wet here and all I can eat is kale and apples, I can make a pie to remind myself of what's to come.

Peaches, arugula, and chevre.

Tomatoes are also unbelievable. I picked up a few little heirloom tomatoes with the plan of having them in a salad, but last night I chopped them up to braise with some chicken, onions, and garlic. Now, you know what a bad tomato tastes like, right? Mealy and bland and just plain awful. These. Were not that! Entirely the opposite: deep ruby red, tangy and sweet. Flawless.

I've taken to having yogurt & fruit for breakfast lately, instead of my usual cereal. I used to hate plain yogurt, but I'm quite fond of it now--I suppose luscious blueberries and a dose of honey don't hurt--and so this weekend I thought I'd try my hand at making yogurt at home. It was a lot of waiting (and then, straining) for a pretty low yield--one quart of milk made about one cup of yogurt. My yogurt didn't taste like anything the store-bought yogurt I used to "pitch" it. In fact it tasted more like ricotta cheese, with a vaguely fermented aftertaste, so I'm not sure where I went wrong. Ultimately, tasty, but I'm not sure I'll be doing that again anytime soon.

What's next, then? Well, current fridge contents include purple cauliflower (huh?), more of those wax beans (potentially inferior), kale and chorizo (for that cold-weather staple: lentil soup!), blueberries and strawberries. And about four more peaches. We'll see what I can cook up this weekend. I feel like I should give canning another go, but I might just end up with a peach & blueberry concoction. In the meantime, feast your eyes on some recent-ish pretty things. (Please forgive the blurry ones, the lighting in my kitchen + my limited photography skills = uh, blurry pictures.)



Buttermilk pie with strawberries in red wine syrup.


Jacques Pepin's oeufs Jeanette with arugula.



Thin spaghetti w/roasted cherry tomatoes, breadcrumbs, and arugula (a regular Chefty star)

Cheesecake--and I have to say, a perfect, crack-free cheesecake--with minted blueberries

The only unbroken ranbow I've ever seen, and the brightest--taken from my deck. That's the Fremont bridge in the background.

*Not a recommendation to anyone (except maybe myself!) I was listening to Aimee Mann is all.